American Agriculture and Russia Meet

Today we had the opportunity to speak to representatives from the USDA that are currently working in Russia. This offered an interesting take on Russian agriculture and the relationship between the two countries. As fellow foreigners in Russia it was neat to see their take on the Russian way of doing things.

Through our conversation I learned quite a bit more about Russian agriculture and the influence of American imports. The US exports about $2billion worth of agricultural products to Russia with the bulk of that being meat products. Russia lacks a large enough meat industry to satisfy domestic demand, especially the demand for higher quality meat products. According to the USDA representatives, around 90-95% of the beef in Russia comes from non-beef cattle, aka culled dairy cows. The majority of steaks and other high quality cuts are imported and affordable, high quality beef is hard to come by. There are only an estimated 600,000 head of beef cattle in Russia. It may seem like a lot of cows, but that is the equivalent of one cow for every 237 people. Compare that to the over 90 million beef animals in the US.

In response to this, several American farmers have begun the process of building up Russia's beef production. This past year one rancher from Montana began the process of shipping part of his Angus herd from the US to Russia. November marked the arrival of the nearly 1500 animals that were transported on ships and planes to Novorossiysk and settled into their new home in Voronezh, 290 miles south of Moscow. The Stevenson Sputnik Ranch is a 14,500 acre joint venture between the Stevenson Angus Ranch of Hobson Montana, Holden Herefords in Valier and the Russian company, Sputnik. Together they hope to change the Russian beef market and supply a superior product to Russian consumers.

If you would like some more information about the ranch here's a general overview -
http://www.theindependentobserver.com/Latest/stevenson-ranch-holden-herefords-ship-herd-russia.html

Also, technical, but informative http://gain.fas.usda.gov/Recent%20GAIN%20Publications/New%20Joint-Venture%20Brings%20U.S.%20Beef%20Cattle%20Ranch%20to%20Russia_Moscow_Russian%20Federation_12-27-2010.pdf

Or some pictures, always fun to look at - http://www.flickr.com/photos/54451217@N07/sets/72157625920400222/

And of course, the ever present Facebook page - http://www.facebook.com/pages/Stevenson-Sputnik/161144153937749

So What Exactly Was I Expecting???

One of the questions we get all the time was if, prior to our arrival in Moscow, did we believe there were bears roaming the streets. The first time I was asked this I found it quite odd and relatively random. I had no preconceptions that bears would be wandering around Moscow (except during Maslenitsa, when I was informed that there is bear wrestling, which there wasn't and I was upset, however not as upset as when I was lied to about getting to ride a camel, but that's another story) and I also don't expect koalas and kangaroos to be chilling in Sydney whenever I make it that far south of the equator. However I'm not opposed to having a pet koala, but I'm under the impression that kangaroos are slightly meaner than most realize, so in summation hold the 'roos bring on the koalas. But I digress, at no point in time did I expect there to be bears wandering around the capital of Russia, or even Irkutsk or Vladivostok for that matter. And yet, for some reason time and time again we are asked about it.

As that question is repeatedly asked, I find myself wondering what I did expect to find in Moscow, and actually, I have no idea. I expected it to be cold, no disappointment there although I was expecting more extreme temperatures but it's not something I'll complain about. I expected the buildings to be all grey, blocky, and Soviet-esque (although every guidebook for Moscow features St. Basil's I kind of figured it was a singular explosion of color, as if all the paint available in Russia went into painting that building. I was wrong on this account, however I have not been to a hardware store to make certain.). I expected things to be less expensive than they are, and for there to be an inexpensive clothing store of some sort, but most of all I didn't expect anything.

Don't get me wrong, I had this idea that I might get to rub elbows with some oligarch's progeny (if you know of any, let me know) and the kind of vague notion of what life would be like in Russia, but looking back I can't remember my predetermined notions of everyday interactions with Moscovite's and what Russia would really be like.

I think it's better to avoid having any preconceived notions. It kept me from being disappointed, or truly experiencing culture shock. It allowed me to see Russia as it is being presented to me, here and now, not the Russia presented in a history lecture or via the History Channel. It allowed me to form my own opinions, to not get upset when things aren't as I thought they should be (except for bear wrestling), and to not continuously compare the Russia I experience to the fairytale Russia in my imagination.

Not having a set of preconceived notions and expectations has made this trip more enjoyable and a more accurate representation of what Russia is today. Sometimes it's better to go into things unprepared. Winging it is way more fun anyway, plus you get some awesome stories to pester people back home with (for instance I have now spent the night riding around Moscow in a limo) and they are easier to pack than a bunch of souvenirs from Izmailovsky, although I have those too.

Metro Roulette

I have found that the best way to discover Moscow is through trial and error. Guidebooks only go so far in exposing you to the real daily life of a foreign place, leaving the rest up to you to discover. Like in other cities, some of my favorite areas of Moscow are those I have stumbled upon by chance. 

While guidebooks are useful for finding information about the main sights of a city, I have a hard time taking instruction from a book that was written for an audience of which I am not really a part. My interest lies away from the typical scene of museums and nightclubs, which can be entertaining and interesting at times, but does not hold my attention for long. This has led me to pursue other areas of entertainment, primarily Metro Roulette.

Perhaps it is important to explain the premise of Metro Roulette, the main method by which I explore Moscow. With Metro Roulette a metro line and station are chosen at random and the surrounding area is then traversed with no destination in mind and no objectives. This method of exploration has led to the discovery of working class neighborhoods, historical sections of the city, business districts, small neighborhood parks, good food and most importantly, good times. 

My favorite areas of Moscow are just off the beaten path. If you travel three blocks away from Tverskaya Street you can find yourself in quiet little neighborhoods with apartment buildings arranged around small parks, corner grocery shops, and small restaurants and cafes that cater to the local crowd. It was here that Katie Moore, Katie McKee and I found a delicious Italian restaurant, Mamma Pasta, several weeks ago. 

This past week we happened to stumble upon Kitai Gorod, perhaps the most beautiful area of Moscow I have uncovered so far. While Red Square is awe-inspiring, the quiet streets of Kitai offer up a different version of Moscow. Many of the buildings are of a different era than the remainder of Moscow. Kitai is a historic area of the city with beautiful architecture, bold buildings and quaint streets that seem so far removed from the rest of Moscow. Here even the pace seems slower, life is calmer and cleaner. It is mainly a business district now, housing large banks and shops, however small cathedrals dot the streets and add to the homey, lived-in feel of the area. Two of the most beautiful churches in Moscow are located here, St. Nicholas at Nikitniki and St. Nicholas the Great Cross, both built during the mid to late 1600s. Like many churches, the Great Cross was destroyed under Soviet rule but has since been rebuilt. Most of the area around Kitai was destroyed from 1930 to 1960, with only those buildings deemed historic left standing. This led to one of the highest concentrations of medieval churches in Moscow, and one of the most breathtaking street-scapes in the city.

Perhaps it was the weather, which was by far the best we have had since arriving in Moscow, or perhaps it was the fact that we “discovered” Kitai Gorod, but I find it to be the most beautiful and breathtaking area of Moscow, with a different atmosphere than the rest of the city.  

Speaking of Time... It's Flying!

Hey Everyone!

When I started this blog I intended for it to be more than just an account of my adventures. This has led to posts that are few and far between and don't really give an idea of what I have been up to this semester. So I've decided to take this opportunity to catch everyone up on what they really come here to see, pictures. At least I know that's why I read National Geographic.

Disclaimer: I am by no means claiming that my photos are on par with their's. They may be crooked, slightly out of focus, taken though dirty windows, or just not that interesting. However they may be the most amazing pictures you have ever seen. So I apologize in advance it they do not meet your epicurean tastes or if they exceed them.


Maselnitsa Celebration - Here are some pictures of the park we went to. Unfortunately, I've forgotten which one it is and it was so cold I didn't take many photos there.

In the distance you can see the city. It gave a new perspective to everything.

Walking along a path in the park with some of our Russian friends.

We went to the Pushkin Museum of foreign art. They have a huge collection of statues as well as some paintings. Here is a view from outside the exit

On the way back to the metro. In the distance is Christ the Saviour Cathedral.

Last week we toured a mushroom farm. It was a little over an hour drive there, but it took nearly four hours to get back. They say that we have really experienced Russia now that we have been in a Moscow traffic jam. I'm pretty sure it would have been faster to walk.

Mushrooms grow in huge trays that are stacked to optimize the space. 

 Views from out the window on the way back to the hostel.

Our Russian friends told us this is a hot water heating plant, I'm going to go with Chernobyl. Helps explain why it took so long to get back to Moscow.

I'm guessing this is the Russian equivalent of "Wash Me", or it's gang graffiti. Who knows.

We ventured to Tsaritsino in the southern part of Moscow where Catherine the Great built her summer home in Moscow. Due to budget constraints, it wasn't finished being built until recently. Personally I find it a little plain, but maybe it is more awe-inspiring in the summer : )

 

Small cathedral on the grounds. 

We stopped for lunch at a little cafe, ate some blini, and spent the next two hours laughing hysterically. We're pretty sure that it wasn't actually powdered sugar on top.

So that's what I have been up to lately, at least the things I have pictures from. Once Flicker finishes uploading some more pictures, I'll setup a slideshow of our latest adventure to Се́ргиев Поса́д, Sergeiv Posad, the home of a medieval monastary.

Time

Is time an artificial construct or just an abstract concept? 

While I was in Ghana, time never really seemed to pass. When I arrived in January until I left in May, each day was nearly identical. Eighty-ninety degree weather was the norm with very little seasonal variation in temperature. The sun rose every day at roughly 6am and set around 6pm. One day stretched into another with only the calendar to denote that time was passing. Businesses and classes were run using the resulting concept of "Ghana Time" which was very similar to Island Time in its disregard for clocks, appointments, and any idea of a schedule. 

As you move away from the tropics, and Ghana's location at 6 degrees north latitude, seasonal variation becomes more apparent and time is a more important and concrete concept. With cold winters and shorter growing seasons, life is a race against the clock to plant and harvest at the appropriate times. I thought that the seasonal urgency would extend into everyday life, but I have failed to notice the regard that we Americans hold for time among my Russian friends. We make plans to meet up at 5 to go out to eat, and they don't begin to show up until quarter after six. 

In the past couple of years, Russia has taken an almost combative stance on time. As the largest country in the world, Russia spanned 11 time zones up until recently. In an effort to make communication and relationships between Kaliningrad and Vladivostock, President Medvedev reduced the number of time zones to 9, and has suggested that the number of time zones could be reduced to five in the future. 

Time is a concept that throws a lot of kids for a loop when they first learn to read a clock. This is compounded by the discovery of daylight savings time, a concept I still have difficulty understanding the validity and usefulness of. Evidently, Medvedev had similar feelings when it comes to daylight savings time as he has discontinued the use of it. This fun little fact led to a lot of confusion on Sunday as we were trying to go to bed. In the haze created by a lack of sleep and the attempt to do our Russian homework under such conditions, we couldn't decide what time it currently was in Moscow. From our communications with home, we knew that it was time to set our clocks forward one hour, and yet our computers and other electronic devices that normally automatically adjust for the shift in daylight savings time had an unchanged time, yet the clocks set to our respective time zones in the US had already adjusted. Like the products of the 21st century that we are, we sought guidance and understanding from the one unquestionable, all-knowing source, and my personal best friend, Google. Google so kindly informed us that Russia will no longer be observing daylight savings time, and this initially seemed to answer our question. However after a little more research, we found conflicting sources as to whether or not Russia is in fact observing DST for the current year. 

Some more research, much debate, and multiple tantrums of "I don't understand what's going on!" led to the realization that Russia is observing DST for the final time this year, however they have elected to do so two weeks after the start of DST in the US. So, for the next week I am one hour closer to home.

As a child I read the Wrinkle in Time book series by Madeleine L'Engle. At one point one of the characters remarks that time exists so that everything doesn't happen at once. While on certain occasions this aspect of time seems to malfunction, as deadlines and catastrophes pile upon each other, time generally functions as well as can be hoped for. 

I am looking forward to my remaining time in Russia. I'm sure the next two months will pass quicker than I realize at this point, but I am excited for the coming of spring and warmer weather. The snow is beginning to melt and the days are beginning to lengthen and I feel as if I have been transported to an alternative universe where the sun shines and there is a ground cover other than snow and ice. It is a whole new Russia out there, and I intend to see it. 

Russian Agriculture

For the ten days following birth, the calves are kept in boxes so they are easier to feed.

One of my main intents in studying abroad in Russia was to gain exposure to the system of agriculture practiced in Eastern Europe and the differences from American agriculture. While not much is growing at the moment due to the foot of snow still blanketing the ground, as part of my courses we take weekly field trips to agricultural businesses around Moscow. Last week we ventured two hours outside of Moscow to Klin in order to tour a dairy operation. Along the way we learned a lot about the farm system under Soviet rule and the transformation into its current state.

Many businesses struggled when the Soviet Union collapsed and they lost the support of the government. The Klinsky dairy that we visited is one of sixteen privately owned dairies in its region, but it is the only one to remain profitable, most likely due to the use of vertical integration. Instead of focusing solely on milk production, the dairy has also begun processing the milk and selling the products on the local market.

During Soviet times, agricultural production was focused into large state controlled farms. Due to mismanagement and a lack of incentives to produce more products efficiently, these state farms struggled to produce enough food to meet the demands of the population. Over time the Russian government realized this and allowed private gardens for personal consumption. Eventually, the go ahead was given to allow the public to sell excess produce. This created the incentive needed to boost Russia's agriculture production. By the 1970-80s, forty percent of Russia's agricultural production took place in these private gardens which accounted for around five percent of Russia's agricultural land. This practice has carried over to today and a large portion of Russians still grow their own vegetables, fruit, and herbs at their country homes, or да́ча​.

Just as Russians have been reluctant to let go of their gardens when it is easier and sometimes cheaper to buy their vegetables, they have also been reluctant to let go of their traditional farming practices and embrace differing concepts. This may be due to a lack of capital to invest in different farming techniques or the disbelief that these new practices could possibly work.

A bit dirtier than at home.

One of the barns.

The ever-changing nature of things has been extremely visible over the past week. Monday ushered in a new era of our time in Russia. While Brazil has Carnaval, Russia has Maslenitsa, a week long celebration of the beginning of spring. Replacing the King Cake of Mardi Gras is an abundant supply of pancake-like deliciousness, блины. Originally a pagan holiday, Maslenitsa celebrated the coming of spring and was adopted by the church and widely observed up until it was more-or-less banned during Soviet times. Luckily for me, there was revival following Perestroika and I have the opportunity to celebrate the beginning of warmer days with a delicious stack of super thin blini.

Monday also brought with it a change in the weather. The sun was out, and temperatures reached over 20º F. While that may not seem remarkable to most of my friends and family back home in Virginia, take my word that this is a big change for Moscow. With temperatures dipping below -15º F two weeks ago and remaining in the negatives for the following weeks, our much warmer current conditions make us want to break out the shorts.

I recently read an article about the iconic Russian souvenirs, Matryoshka dolls. In the early twentieth century, the production of Matryoshka dolls was standardized at what most would view as the traditional look. However, today artists are able to paint the dolls anyway they so choose, leading to a wide variety of designs. Lining the walkways of Izmalovsky market are numerous stalls selling everything from sports teams, to movie characters, to world leader dolls. One seller may have an Obama set next to AC Milan's starting line left of  Osama Bin Laden who is beside Homer Simpson. And on Homer's right is the cast of Avatar followed by the succession of Russian leaders, Medvedev to a miniature Peter the Great. 


I am sure that nearly everyone is familiar with Winston Churchill's iconic view of Russia.                                   "A Riddle Wrapped in a Mystery Inside an Enigma".              In the time that has passed since Churchill said this, the Iron Curtain has fallen and the internet has revolutionized the spread of information, and yet Russia still remains elusive and undefinable. The world has changed and Russia has changed with it. The Soviet system has been altered, aspects of the West have been adapted and adopted, old traditions have resurfaced and buildings have been rebuilt.

Nothing is stagnant forever.

My time in Russia has reinforced what I learned in Ghana. Anything is possible. All you have to do is step beyond the borders of the organized world into something a little more chaotic and a lot more inexplicable.

Conversion, Alteration, Change of Heart, Exchange, About-face, Innovation, Metamorphosis, Modification, Remodelling, Transfiguration, Transformation, Translation, Transmogrification, Transmutation, and, oh yeah, Synonyms

Probably one of the most annoying components of travel is conversions. Once you step outside your home country, everything changes. Voltage converters, plug converters and adapters, currency converters, and temperature conversions become a part of everyday life and another thing you windup toting along everywhere you go.

Before this year's batch of five American exchange students arrived in Moscow, everyone stocked up on converters for the electrical outlets so we could plug in those gadgets brought from home. But no more that 6hrs into our stay in Russia and one hair straightener, a surge protector, and a plug adapter had been fried by the 220 volt current that was not taken into account.

Everyday we are confronted with a variety of conversions. Whether it is converting the Cyrillic letters into sounds, exchanging English words for Russian, or altering our way of thinking when it comes to temperature, distance, and price, we constantly are reminded that there is a world outside the US and it can be very different than what we're used to.

Modern innovations have helped to minimize the hassle of conversions. Luckily, most computers are capable of handling up to 240 volts without incidence, and an assortment of voltage converters can be bought for other imported electronics. Most travel companies now sell plug adapters as well as converters and language translators can easily be found online. Calculators are our constant companion when it comes to questions of money. All-you-need-to-know phrasebooks line the shelves of bookstores and instruct you how to ask for directions, buy food, make hotel reservations, or rent a car. But there are some things that modern technology does nothing to change.

Traveling abroad is almost entirely about adapters and conversions. The definitions of adapt and convert are to change from one thing to another, and that is what a semester abroad does. It takes those students brave enough to step outside their national boundaries and transforms them as they experience a widely different culture, language and way of life. Despite the availability of guidebooks, travel magazines, and the travel channel, there is no substitute for actually living in a different country. There are some things that must be experienced to understand, and often you still won't fully comprehend.

Toasts - This Time the Drinking Kind

One thing I have learned in my short time here is that Americans may not be far off in their assumption of the love affair between Russians and alcohol. Many times we base our view of a country on a few characteristics we've seen represented in films. We associate Africa with elephants and lions, Mexico with tequila and tortillas, kangaroos and Australia, the Eiffel Tower and France. While these may be common aspects of a particular culture or location, it is by no means the sum of that place.


There are several things that most people associate with Russia: vodka, caviar, and the Russian mafia along with ridiculously cold weather and fur coats. I can now say that while only a few places in Africa commonly have elephants, and fewer still lions, and kangaroos may not regularly hop along the streets of Sydney, in my experience many of these iconic impressions of Russia hold to be relatively true. My parents will be happy to note that I have had no interactions with the Russian mafia, and my Russian classmates tell me that their influence in Moscow has diminished from what it once was. The other characteristics listed above have become relatively common, everyday things.

Russians love caviar. From my encounters with it I'm guessing it is an acquired taste. My classmate, большой Max (there are three Max's/Maxim's, большой Maкс or big Max, and two Maxim's that we denote by their nationality, Французский-French Maxim and Russian Maксим) brought us some red caviar to try on white bread and butter. I think he ended up eating the majority of the jar. There's a reason why Russians follow caviar with vodka, which they love with equal fervor. 

Looks delicious, right?

For all the animal lovers out there, if you have moral issues with the use of fur in apparel, stay away from Russia. Fur coats are everywhere. Every бабушка on the metro has a long fur coat or huge fur hat, and a lot of the younger generation elite sport exotic furs in a variety of colors. Its part fashion statement, part necessity. Today the temperature got down to -18°F and it felt like a wonderfully warm -30°F when considering the wind chill. When we saw all the Russians on the street were completely bundled up, we knew we were in for trouble. We haven't even had the desire to run across the street and buy some vodka to warm up.

Somewhere under there is an actual car.

Inna, our classmat

Vodka, and alcohol in general, is not just for warming up, it is a national past time. The selection at the small grocery store across the street rivals that of ABC stores at home. Drinking may very well be a national sport, and if it is, it is rivaled by toasting. While I love toasting bread, Russians enjoy toasting their friends, countrymen, and drinking companions. David, our Armenian-Russian friend entertains us with his twenty minute toasts, made even longer by the time it takes to translate and the fact that occasionally our translators wind up repeating the same thing in Russian instead of English. Russian toasts may be serious, or funny, or contain a simple message, "let us move mountains together", embedded in a story of a proud eagle flying complete with gestures and hand motions.

Some of the group out on the town.

Alcohol sold from a cart on the street.

Americans often associate guns with Russia, either as part of the mafia, military, or due to Russia's development of the iconic Калаш or AK-47. We had a tour of the MSAU, the university we are affiliated with, last week and part of that tour included a visit to the military science department where we were placed in a room full of guns and basically told to go wild. At least that's what I'm guessing was said since my Russian is progressing slowly and extends to asking where Mama and Papa are and if this is your scarf (Где мама и папа? Это ваш шарф?). 

Another iconic event. We have also had the opportunity to play Russian billiards which is similar to pool except the table is HUGE, the balls are bigger and the pockets are smaller. So, basically it is really hard.

Notice the giant table.

Katie and большой Maкс. An accurate representation of our respective playing abilities.

Russia also has iconic architecture. Aside from St. Basil's, there are countless cathedrals with similar onion domes. The mix of architectural styles is interesting whimsical buildings in a variety of colors and patterns are situated next to large, blocky, imposing structures that are no less beautiful.

 

As the world's largest country, Russia may very well be as varied as it gets despite the limited number of attributes commonly associated with it.